Greenville Part 1: Pleasantly Surprised

Sometimes you need to take a trip that is not your standard vacation.  It’s either for your children’s activities, family responsibilities, or business, but it’s not a vacation.  I have taken trips to places like Oroville, California; Lubbock, Texas; and Beaverton, Oregon, which were not inducements to travel in themselves, but they provided me with good food, new sights, and an enjoyable time with loved ones. There is fun to be had, you just have to find it! Recently, I took just such a trip to Greenville, South Carolina.

I looked at this trip as a challenge.  My graduating senior boy had his final debate tournament there, and we were there for ten days. Friends who had been to the same location told me that Greenville didn’t have a lot to do and that the weather could be unpleasant. While I needed to do some parent volunteer jobs, and I wanted to watch my son debate whenever possible, I still wanted to check out the area and have a pleasant stay. I researched hiking trails, local attractions, restaurants (oh, the bbq!), and spas. I was ready to be impressed.

I was raised in Texas, with relatives in North Carolina and Ohio, so we traveled the south many times during the 70’s and 80’s. However, I hadn’t been back for thirty years, and I was curious to see how it differed from my childhood memories.  I have impressions of great food (delicious but unhealthy), humidity, Confederate flags everywhere, friendly people, and white frame houses with hardwood floors. Let’s see if that’s all still there.

Nice Surprises on Travel Day:

1. We got in some crazy security line that let us keep our clothes and shoes on and leave liquids and computers in our bags. Security people still seem to be channeling Gimli, though. Must be a job requirement.

2. Yoga room at SFO. No photos allowed inside. The room was dim, cool, and silent except for all the heavy breathing. And grunting. That was the guy in jeans, trying to achieve pigeon pose. There were mats, foam rollers, and a mirrored wall, and I spent a lovely time stretching and doing sun salutations. Aaah!  I usually do some rather vigorous stretching before/during the flight, so my son was happy I found the yoga room.

3. The plane was huge but overhead space was dinky so they asked us to check our roller bags at the last minute, fee-free. Since my son had checked his large suitcase full of suits and dress shoes, we had to go by Baggage Claim anyway.  Both bags made it!

4.  My son, who is 17 and leaving for college in 3 months, fell asleep on my shoulder during the flight. I'm going to need a massage to put my neck back in place, but I wouldn't miss that for the world.

5. The South is green. Living in drought-ridden California, I forgot about green trees and grass. This place looks like Ireland to me.

Nice surprises at our destination of Greenville:

1. Apparently, the South is also green as in environmentally aware. Bring your own grocery bags, pick the small flush button for no. 1, eat organic, and think real hard before you put your trash in the Waste, Recycle, or Compost bins.

2. Downtown Greenville is the cutest place! It's like a small-town movie set that magically turned real. There are restaurants, coffee shops, art galleries, shops, health and natural products shops, clothing stores, bars, and most of them are local businesses, not chains. The Saturday morning farmer’s market had an admirable supply of local fruits and vegetables (mostly leafy greens and squash), local eggs, cheese, and bakery items, and a particularly soulful guitar-playing singer. The architecture is lovely, brick facades and pillars outside and high ceilings and hardwood floors inside. Real hardwood that creaks, not Pergo.

3. Downtown is amazingly active on a Saturday night. The sidewalks are full of people, strollers (fewer the later it got), dogs, dressed up teens, senior citizens in sparkly dresses and suits, couples holding hands, you name it. Restaurants have al fresco seating or open-front design, so it all feels very accessible and friendly. There were a few policemen in a couple of different spots, hanging out, giving directions and answering questions. We walked down Main Street to Liberty Bridge, a pedestrian bridge across the Reedy River. Beautiful at night!

4. While visiting my grandmother’s people in North Carolina in the 70’s, I remember shopping at the Mast General Store in Valle Crucis, NC.  It was like something out of Little House on the Prairie, with farm tools and candy and fabric.  Lo and behold, there is a Mast General Store in Greenville, on Main Street!  A family bought the original store from the original owners and has opened several other locations, including this one.  No farm tools, and more outdoor gear, but it does take me back. I bought my kids chocolate, organic sore muscle salve, a paddle ball, wax fangs, and a whoopie cushion.

5. The Swamp Rabbit Trail is a former rail line that has been converted to a walk/bike path.  It goes for miles, and we walked along the riverwalk section downtown and then followed it off through a less-populated area. Sections of the trail have bouncy pavement along one side, and some sections are just paved.  It’s a beautiful walk!

6. One night, I went for a walk with my Airbnb housemate.  We walked 20 minutes to downtown, and strolled the citified part of the Swamp Rabbit Trail.  It’s beautiful at night, with a suspension bridge over the falls.  Walking home, we wandered into Smiley’s Acoustic Cafe.  The music was great, the locals were friendly, and there’s just something nice about singing along with a crowd of relaxed, happy people when you’re supposed to be home in bed.

7. The Greenville County Museum of Art is a wonderful place to be.  High ceilings, white walls, open spaces.  I especially enjoyed the Andrew Wyeth paintings and the South Carolina artists.  The docents know their stuff, and are happy to chat with you about the exhibits.

I knew I would find most of the places listed above in Greenville, but I didn’t think they would not be as lovely as they really were.  Greenville is much more diverse and culturally interesting than I expected.  Who knew?

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