 | I’ve been thinking about relaxing lately. I’m no good at it. On vacation, I like to get up earlier than my family and drink coffee and march around town. I go in churches and bookstores and museums and cemeteries and drink more coffee and eat breakfast. I rack up tens of thousands of steps on my pedometer and buy books and little souvenirs for my kids, all before noon. By then, the family is usually up, so I drag them out of the hotel and show them all the things I’ve learned so far that day. We go out to lunch and dinner and see movies and shop. It’s great, but a loved one recently pointed out to me that I never relax on vacation, and relaxing on vacation is a thing people do. Why? I said. There’s so much to DO. |
Still, the idea intrigued me. This trip to Edinburgh was my first solo trip in a while, so I decided I would work hard at relaxing. I would do what I wanted, eat what I wanted, whenever I wanted. I would look for opportunities to do nothing or read or gaze into the distance. Self care. Free choice. Breathing deeply and slowly. You know, relaxing. Scotland was calling me, so maybe it would like to help me relax.
I went to Scotland when I was nine, but all I remember is running through a field of nettles and camping in my big sister’s VW minibus. It had a pop-up roof, which was the absolute coolest. (My sister said I ground my teeth at night and kept her awake, but she has no proof.) The nettles made me itchy, but I’ve always wanted to go back. For my first adult foray into Scotland, I decided to explore Edinburgh.
I like to be right in the middle of things, even when I’m relaxing, so I stayed at a hotel in Old Town. I was surprised to learn at check-in that they had a pool. I had not brought my swimsuit, and in order to relax, I’d need one. So I bought one. Self care: check. The pool had a nice view of Edinburgh castle, and a 15-minute timer in the sauna. I almost died of boredom waiting for the timer to finish, but I did it. I paddled around in the pool to cool off (after a sanitizing shower, of course) and talked to an Irish lady. It was quite relaxing.
Being relaxed means keeping yourself well-fed, in my book, so I ate some good food. Scotland’s baked goods game is strong. They have this little meal called Cream Tea, which is a scone and tea with cream they whip up for you right there. The cream is divine, smooth and fluffy and rich. Also jam. I lost count of how many Cream Teas I had.
I went to Scotland when I was nine, but all I remember is running through a field of nettles and camping in my big sister’s VW minibus. It had a pop-up roof, which was the absolute coolest. (My sister said I ground my teeth at night and kept her awake, but she has no proof.) The nettles made me itchy, but I’ve always wanted to go back. For my first adult foray into Scotland, I decided to explore Edinburgh.
I like to be right in the middle of things, even when I’m relaxing, so I stayed at a hotel in Old Town. I was surprised to learn at check-in that they had a pool. I had not brought my swimsuit, and in order to relax, I’d need one. So I bought one. Self care: check. The pool had a nice view of Edinburgh castle, and a 15-minute timer in the sauna. I almost died of boredom waiting for the timer to finish, but I did it. I paddled around in the pool to cool off (after a sanitizing shower, of course) and talked to an Irish lady. It was quite relaxing.
Being relaxed means keeping yourself well-fed, in my book, so I ate some good food. Scotland’s baked goods game is strong. They have this little meal called Cream Tea, which is a scone and tea with cream they whip up for you right there. The cream is divine, smooth and fluffy and rich. Also jam. I lost count of how many Cream Teas I had.
Their salmon game is unparalleled. Whether it’s smoked or baked, it’s divine.
I’m not much of a whiskey drinker, but I wanted to try it, so when I went out for dinner one night I asked a bartender about it. He happily quizzed me on my whiskey background and alcohol tastes, and recommended the Auchentoshan Three Wood single malt, from the Lowlands. It’s not too oily or smokey, mildly fruity, and similar to bourbon, he said. Sure, I said. He wanted to know how I would like it served, and since I had no clue, he recommended it served over ice. Sure, I said, and let me tell you, that drink was heaven in a little glass. It smelled like your favorite memory from childhood, all grown up and ready to dance. I now have a favorite whiskey.
I’m not much of a whiskey drinker, but I wanted to try it, so when I went out for dinner one night I asked a bartender about it. He happily quizzed me on my whiskey background and alcohol tastes, and recommended the Auchentoshan Three Wood single malt, from the Lowlands. It’s not too oily or smokey, mildly fruity, and similar to bourbon, he said. Sure, I said. He wanted to know how I would like it served, and since I had no clue, he recommended it served over ice. Sure, I said, and let me tell you, that drink was heaven in a little glass. It smelled like your favorite memory from childhood, all grown up and ready to dance. I now have a favorite whiskey.
I find trying new things enjoyable, so maybe that would qualify as relaxing. My new thing to try in Scotland would be haggis. Haggis is a meat dish made from sheep innards, spices, and onion, pulverized and held together with oatmeal, or stuffed into a sheep stomach or sausage casing and boiled. I had haggis along with my traditional Scottish breakfast one morning. It wasn’t bad, kind of like a loose meatball. If someone says, Hey, you gotta try my grandma’s haggis--it’s the best! then I will try it, but otherwise I won’t seek it out.
Also, this Scottish breakfast could have fed my whole family. I did not finish.
Also, this Scottish breakfast could have fed my whole family. I did not finish.
I woke up one morning at 6 a.m. and was unable to go back to sleep. First I cursed my wretched jittery soul, then I decided that I should relax by making the most of it, so I went out and took photos of Edinburgh with empty streets and divine early-morning light. It was very relaxing, after I adjusted my mood.
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Edinburgh is a very literary city. It has a lot of bookstores, festivals, museums, tours, and events. I went to several bookstores (Transreal Fiction--sci fi and fantasy, Armchair Books--used, Edinburgh Books--used, Edinburgh Bookshop, and Blackwell’s).
These are the books I bought in Edinburgh. I’m sure reading them will be very relaxing.
These are the books I bought in Edinburgh. I’m sure reading them will be very relaxing.
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| I went on a Harry Potter walking tour because I don’t care what you say about it being children’s literature I recognize great storytelling when I see it and I love Harry Potter. The small tour was led by a lovely red-haired woman named Kat, and she took us around Edinburgh showing us places JK Rowling wrote the books and sites that are similar to locations and characters in the books. She told us about Scottish folklore. The people on the tour, all adults except for one nursing baby, were devoted fans like me. We bonded. It was beautiful. I also went on a tour called The Edinburgh Literary Pub Tour. The tour guides are two smarty-pants literary buffs who take you to four different pubs and bicker about Scotland’s authors and poets. Between the lager and the stories and the excellent company, it was a lovely evening. Going to the beach and hiking were very relaxing. I climbed Arthur’s Seat, a beautiful gentle climb up to a peak overlooking Edinburgh. |  |
| One thing that was definitely relaxing was a noontime concert I attended in St. Giles church. A choir sang songs from around the world. The echo was divine, and I don’t use that word lightly. In general, Edinburgh’s street music is excellent. There are bagpipers everywhere, some in kilts with the big furry hat, some in the kilt and not much else. This man singing Scottish folk songs haunted me for days. Did I learn to relax in Edinburgh? I’m not sure. I had a lovely time, I ate great food, I met nice people, and now I have a big stack of books to read. But my foot still twitches when I try to sit still and my eyes dart around when I think of the things I need to do. I think I need to try relaxing again in a warmed climate. |  |
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