 | I love Greece. The food is delicious, the people are nice, there’s enough written and spoken English that you can get around, and it’s generally a relaxed and sunny place. |
However, Greece has had some economic problems the past few years, and Athens is not as spiffy as Paris or Rome. The sidewalks are in bad shape and the residential architecture is utilitarian. You can’t flush toilet paper. However, the subways are shiny-clean and easy to use, the buses go everywhere, and taxis are plentiful. Hotels and Airbnbs are affordable in season, and downright cheap off-season. Restaurants and grocery stores let you stuff your face economically. They have everything you need to live well.
In my opinion, you only need two or three full days to explore Athens. One day for the Acropolis and the Plaka neighborhood, one day for some museums and markets, and one day for a general exploration by yourself or on a hop-on-hop-off tour.
We were there in April, before the main tourist season, so the weather was pleasant and the city wasn’t too crowded. We stayed at an Airbnb that DID NOT HAVE ANY IKEA FURNISHINGS--truly unique! It belonged to an older lady who showed us the place and then left us in peace with a huge tray of baked goods, homemade fig jam, a fridge full of necessities, and two kinds of coffee (French and Greek). Also ouzo. Possibly my best Airbnb ever.
In my opinion, you only need two or three full days to explore Athens. One day for the Acropolis and the Plaka neighborhood, one day for some museums and markets, and one day for a general exploration by yourself or on a hop-on-hop-off tour.
We were there in April, before the main tourist season, so the weather was pleasant and the city wasn’t too crowded. We stayed at an Airbnb that DID NOT HAVE ANY IKEA FURNISHINGS--truly unique! It belonged to an older lady who showed us the place and then left us in peace with a huge tray of baked goods, homemade fig jam, a fridge full of necessities, and two kinds of coffee (French and Greek). Also ouzo. Possibly my best Airbnb ever.
 The view |  Tray of goodies |
Ouzo
Give yourself about two hours to explore the Acropolis. Here’s my tour guide spiel: the Acropolis is a hilltop where the Parthenon, the Theatre of Dionysius, the Temple of Athena, and many other ruins are located. You buy one ticket to see all of that. There is no food or drink allowed. There are toilets. The view from the top is spectacular. Sometimes it’s windy and dusty up there, but the day I was there it was just lovely. I went a couple of hours before closing, and it wasn’t crowded. Hang out in the cradle of western civilization and feel how you’re part of the endless river of humanity. People do amazing things, and this is proof of that.
The Parthenon
Seats in the Theater of Dionysius
Theater of Dionysius
Acropolis Flowers
The neighborhood next to the Acropolis is called the Plaka. It’s a warren of shops, restaurants, colorful houses, and tourist traps (avoid eye contact, just keep swimming).
 Colorful houses |  Oh, the seafood |
Plaka grafitti
You can take a hop-on-hop-off bus tour around Athens, but get an early start because the buses are not always prompt. We took a tour for eleven euros each, which I consider a good deal. It was no-frills, the weather was lovely, and my travel companion and I played Would You Rather on the top deck of the bus, so I consider it a total success.
 You’ll pass the Olympic stadium (view from Acropolis with zoom lens, not bus) |  Athens isn’t really pretty but you forgive it because at the end of most streets there’s the Parthenon |
Gloriously abandoned house
Kid 3 and me on the top deck of the bus (see the Parthenon behind my head?)
Two of my favorite things to do in new cities is visit churches and markets. The Athens flea market and several interesting churches are near the Plaka.
Athens Flea Market
 Athens Metropolitan Cathedral |  |
For a day trip from Athens, you can get a bus or a taxi down to Sounion. It’s a beautiful drive, and there is the Temple of Poseidon, with nice beaches and restaurants. However, I don’t mean to be a party pooper, but I think it’s too far away from Athens to be worth it. The temple is a ruin (don’t hate me) like all the other ruins you saw in the Acropolis, and Greece is full of lovely beaches (again, don’t hate me) and stunning coastal drives (you know it’s true). Stick around Greece for a few days and you’ll have plenty of ruins, beaches, and drives. Still, we had a beautiful day with thirty minutes at the Temple and a few hours on the beach with a picnic. The water was too cold for me, but Kid 3 is braver and he had a great time in the water. We got a taxi from Athens to Sounion, even though it was more expensive than the bus, because the bus seemed iffy. (Since the Greek financial crisis, a lot of the modes of public transportation have been privatized and the system is not perfect. The regional bus system is an example of this, and does not have good signage, a user-friendly website, or reliable times. We didn’t want to get stuck in the boonies with nothing but our wits to rely on so we opted for a taxi.)
Temple of Poseidon
 View from the temple to the beach we visited |  Me taking Kid 3’s picture (photo creds Michelle--thanks, Michelle!) |
Beach
Athens is an interesting place, historically and culturally, and the friendly locals and easy-going vibe make it fun to visit. Get ready to roll with the flow, and you’ll have a lovely time.
